Home » Events » Climbing Wall Summit 2013 » Schedule » Pre-Conference Workshops
Pre-conference workshops are in-depth full or half-day workshops held before the Climbing Wall Summit. Attendees to pre-conference workshops will gain certifications, experience, and knowledge during these workshops. Workshops are an important supplement to the Summit for any attendee.
Dates: Wednesday May 29th (9:00am - 5:00pm) & Thursday May 30 (9:00 am - 1:00 pm)
Location: Movement Climbing + Fitness: 2845 Valmont Rd, Boulder, CO
Instructor: Scott Williams, Vertical Endeavors
Cost: $195
The 12-hour CWI course will address equipment and facility inspection, client orientation and instruction, top rope skills, lead skills, bouldering and spotting, and emergency procedures. Participants will need to meet a number of prerequisites and study course material prior to the course. All course assessment is pass/fail, with options to repeat the course if necessary. The CWI course is designed to be integrated into a gym’s existing staff training program if the owner/operator qualifies as a CWI Provider. The certificate is valid for 3 years from the date of the course.
Pre-requisites, certification standards and other course information can be found here.
Presenter Bio
Scott Williams is the Facility Manager at Vertical Endeavors in Warrenville, Illinois. Scott is a nationally certified climbing wall instructor provider for the Climbing Wall Association in Boulder, Colorado. Scott has been climbing since 1994 and worked as a climbing and outdoor adventure guide for Northern Illinois University from 1995-1998. A big fan of everything from a good boulder session to a long aid route, he is not picky about the climbing as long as it gets him out on the rock. Scott attributes his climbing success over the years to a healthy diet of White Castle. He has been working with Vertical Endeavors since the Chicagoland facility opened in 2001.
Date and Times: Thursday, May 30th (9:00 am - 5:00 pm)
Location: Movement Climbing + Fitness: 2845 Valmont Rd, Boulder, CO
Instructor: Jason Noble and Dave Schwab, Vertical Endeavors
Cost: $150
This training will provide an overview for the CWA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program for prospective instructor pool members. As the program evolves, this training will also serve as continuing education option for instructor pool members.
This training will review the program policy manual, the CWA Industry Practices, the student manual and curricula and general course flow. Provider candidates must be familiar with the primary program documents prior to attending the training. A portion of the training will be spent evaluating the provider candidate’s skills, in scenarios to develop provider skills in consistent nationwide delivery of course content, fair student evaluation, providing effective student feedback, risk management, and in discussing the consensus pass/fail standards.
The CWI program provider course is an eight hour course. Some lecture, but emphasis on demonstration, collaborative learning, evaluation and group discussion of the program and curricula. We will review course flow from successful courses and participate in teaching scenarios to help prospective providers be able to offer a consistent course, consistent feedback to students, and a consistent standard of examination.
Preparation may be required for this course. Instructor may directly contact attendees beforehand. Please review the certification program information here:
http://www.climbingwallindustry.org/index.php/standards/cwi_providers/
Presenter Bios
Jason Noble has been deeply involved in the climbing industry since joining Vertical Endeavors in 1992. In his tenure at Vertical Endeavors, Jason managed the first climbing facility to participate in the CGA (Climbing Gym Association) Accreditation Program, acted as an Examiner for the Accreditation Program. Jason is currently on the CWA Industry Practices and Certification Standards Committees, which are tasked with maintaining the Industry Practices and a National Instructor Certification Standard. As the District Supervisor for Vertical Endeavors, Jason oversees four commercial climbing facilities. Jason is excited to contribute to the industry by sharing his knowledge and experience in order to help the industry grow.
David Schwab is the Director of Safety and Training for Vertical Endeavors. He began rock climbing in 1987 and has been heavily involved with the sport ever since. His experience includes numerous trips to various climbing areas including Joshua Tree, California, Red Rocks, Nevada, The New River Gorge, West Virginia, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado and his “home” climbing area of the Black Hills of South Dakota. In addition to being a certified Vertical Endeavors Guided Adventures guide, he is a nationally certified provider for the Climbing Wall Association in Boulder, Colorado and trains and certifies rock climbing instructors throughout the nation. David also continues to teach snowboarding and is a member of the American Association of Snowboading Instructors, Central Division Education Staff.
Dates and Times: May 30 (1:00 pm - 4:30 pm)
Location: Best Western Plus Boulder Inn (770 28th St, Boulder CO - Google Map: http://goo.gl/maps/fb5zv)
Instructor: Reb Gregg, Attorney at Law
Cost: $25
What is your legal duty of care to a visitor to your facility? What might you do, inadvertently, to enlarge that duty? Does it vary with the personal characteristics of the visitor, and what that person does on your premises? How can you modify your legal duty and reduce the chances of a successful claim of contract breach or negligence? How much protection is a “Release” agreement? We will explore these and other “duty” issues in our interactive session.
Presenter Bio
Charles “Reb” Gregg is a practicing attorney in Houston, Texas, specializing in general litigation and liability issues of adventure and recreation programs. Reb is a frequent speaker in the outdoor recreation industry and has written extensively on these issues, including in the Outdoor Education and Recreation Law Quarterly. Reb is counsel to a number of outdoor programs and to the Association for Challenge Course Technology (ACCT). Reb serves on the Board of Directors for the Student Conservation Association, the Accreditation Council of the Association for Experiential Education (AEE), and as a member of the Wilderness Risk Managers’ Committee.
Dates and Times: May 30 (9:00 am - 5:00 pm)
Location: Movement Climbing + Fitness: 2845 Valmont Rd, Boulder, CO
Instructor: Rick Vance, Petzl America
Cost: $75.00
This course will cover an introduction to techniques for increasing route setter safety and efficiency. Workshop participants will learn Petzl’s recommendations for ascending, descending and positioning while working at height on a climbing wall. We will discuss the selection and use of vertical rope access fall arrest equipment and the application of certain work at height techniques used in industry to the climbing wall environment. This program will cover specialized equipment, practical techniques and procedures for work at height as a route setter. Considerations for developing a thorough vertical rope access training for route setters will also be discussed.
Workshop Goals:
This course has been designed to provide you with information and techniques to:
• Understand legal requirements pertaining to work at height in a climbing gym
• Understand equipment and techniques used in industry for work at height
• Understand ascending, descending and positioning for route setting
• Discuss a basic work at height training system for route setters
The first half of the course will cover general OSHA, ANSI, fall arrest, rope access, and general work at height requirements such as: fall arrest vs. position systems and the strength requirements for each, maximum allowable fall distances, industrial solutions for fall arrest and positioning applicable to route setting (rope access, arborism, tower access), and equipment for fall arrest, work positioning, and haul/lower systems. Our intention in this section is to introduce and discuss regulations, equipment, and work practices used in work activities similar to route setting.
The second half of the course will focus on a practical, hands-on introduction to rope access rigging, ascending, descending, and positioning systems. Then we will demonstrate how these techniques can be applied to route setting. In this section, we would like to allow as much time as possible for you to learn and experiment with these techniques.
Please come prepared to work on rope, and feel free to bring your personal harness and equipment, although we will have a variety of Petzl Sport and Professional harnesses, ascenders, descenders, and equipment for you to use.
Presenter Bio
Rick Vance, Petzl America’s Technical Information Manager, is a Petzl Technical Institute V.axcess certified PPE inspector and inspection course trainer with a mechanical engineering background. Rick has extensive experience in the vertical world as a climber and mountaineer, knowledge of PPE systems and is an expert in vertical rope access and work positioning techniques used in industry.
Dates and Times: May 30 (9:00 am - 5:00 pm)
Location: Best Western Plus Boulder Inn (770 28th St, Boulder CO - Google Map: http://goo.gl/maps/fb5zv)
Instructor: Bob Richards, Open Water Ventures
Cost: $150
This workshop is designed for anyone interested in opening a climbing gym or expanding their existing climbing gym business. Part one of the workshop, in the morning, will cover climbing gym startup; part two of the workshop will address existing climbing gym expansion.
We will begin with a general discussion of understanding your market, the business planning process and the business plan document. We will discuss financing alternatives including equity financing. We will conclude each part with a general discussion and questions and answers. By the conclusion of this workshop, participants will have an understanding of the challenging process of planning “how to open or expand a commercial rock climbing facility”.
Workshop Outline:
1. Finding Your Market
2. Business Planning
3. Financing Alternatives
4. The Role of Real Estate in Developing a Climbing Gym
5. Climbing Wall Suppliers: What to Expect
6. General Discussion and Wrap-up
Presenter Bio
Bob Richards Bob Richards has over 30 years of business experience. After graduating from University of Southern California with an MBA in 1979, Bob worked several years for Ernst & Whinney as a Certified Public Accountant. In 1992, he founded Rockreation, operating large membership-based indoor rock climbing facilities in California, Nevada and Utah. Bob is now the principal of Open Water Ventures and provides consulting services to a variety of clients in business development, new product commercialization, acquisitions, divestitures and strategic planning. Bob serves on the boards of directors of both for-profit and not-for-profit businesses and associations. Bob currently is a provider in CWA’s Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program and serves as an advisor to the CWA Board of Directors as an Emeritus Board Member.
Date and Times: Thursday May 30th (1:00 pm - 4:00 pm)
Location: Eldorado Climbing Walls, 1835 38th St, Boulder, CO 80301
Instructor: Jerad Wells, Eldorado Climbing Walls
Cost: $25
Programming is a critical offering for any climbing gym. Programming supports your return on investment by bringing in new customers, filling slow periods at your gym and creating a curriculum to develop climbers in your facility.
In this interactive workshop, you will learn to plan for programming success. Programming options for both new and existing climbing gyms will be reviewed. We will discuss ways to design your new gym to maximize your programming capabilities, as well as ways to take advantage of existing gym layouts.
Plus, we’ll share ideas for marketing your programming options to increase participation and member retention.
Presenter Bio
Jerad Wells is CEO of Eldorado Climbing Walls, the largest US-owned climbing wall manufacturer. On a daily basis, he consults with current and prospective gym owners on climbing gym design, layout, operations and programming. He has hosted several webinars (http://eldowalls.com/planning/webinars/) and FAQs (http://eldowalls.com/video-faq/) providing resources and advice for climbing gym owners and operators.
Jerad was a fixture on the early 90’s climbing competition boom as a competitor, route setter and judge. He brings to Eldorado Climbing Walls over 20 years of indoor climbing experience and a 16 year proven track record in sales, marketing and business development. Jerad lives in Denver with his wife and their two sons. Sometimes, he likes long walks on the beach.
Dates and Times: May 30 (9:00 am - 12:00 pm)
Location: Boulder Rock Club, 2829 Mapleton Ave, Boulder, CO (http://goo.gl/maps/PphAP)
Instructors: Craig Demartino and Tim O’Neill, Paradox Sports
Cost: $25
Paradox Sports envisions a world where people of all backgrounds and abilities can pursue a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports, regardless of physical disability. We will provide a brief presentation on the Paradox Sports mission, programming and the connection of disability to the clinicians. Then an overview of climbing with various disabilities, and the language, dialog and information concerned with disability. We will break into smaller groups to role-play and utilize different systems, i.e. blindfold to blind; mechanical advantage i.e. pulley based ascension; faux amputation scenarios, and a final discussion on improvisation and adaptation, safety concerns with a Q&A.
Presenter Bios
After an accident in 2002 that resulted in being dropped 100 feet to the ground in Colorado, Craig Demartino chose to amputate his shattered right leg below the knee in hopes of returning to climbing and getting his life back. Once back on the rocks in 2004, Craig became the first amputee to climb El Capitan in Yosemite in under 24 hours, climbing the route Lurking Fear, which is about 3,000 feet in 14 hours. The following June, he became the first amputee to climb the Nose , which is the front part of El Capitan and the longest route of 3,100 feet in 13 hours. This past season Craig returned to Yosemite leading the first All Disabled Ascent of El Cap, completing Zodiac, which is 2,000 feet in five days with Pete Davis and Jarem Frye. Craig is also a volunteer for Paradox Sports, who specialize in getting disabled people outside and climbing through adaptive climbing clinics.
Tim O’Neill is the executive director of Paradox Sports. His involvement with adaptive sport, and in particular adaptive climbing, began in 1992 after his brother Sean became a T-12 paraplegic. Tim founded Paradox Sports with US Army Captain DJ Skelton in 2007 following a D.C. based adaptive climbing clinic. Tim has completed numerous ascents in the North America with disabled partners and regularly climbs with his brother Sean in Yosemite National Park in CA. It is Tim’s goal to provide the adaptive climbing manual and clinic of Paradox Sports to climbing gyms across the nation and asks for your partnership.
Dates and Times: Thursday, May 30 (9:00 am - 1:00 pm)
Location: The Spot Bouldering Gym, 3240 Prairie Ave, Boulder, CO (http://goo.gl/maps/mKDiO)
Instructor: Tim Fairfield, Futurist Climbing
Cost: $25
We will provide a well supervised event conducive to sharing and learning about proper spotting, bouldering gymnastic falling techniques, landing zone use space management & monitoring policies that promote safe bouldering practices for commercial climbing facility employees, new customers, members, coaches and youth team participants.
The techniques to be conveyed in this workshop are appropriate for commercial climbing facility managers, coaches, climbing instructors, route setters and safety monitors working in environments that are properly equipped with primary bouldering safety flooring surfaces. Attendees will learn a progression of physically engaged falling/landing techniques that increase the climber’s body awareness and confidence.
Topics Covered:
• Advisable bouldering area conduct/space management
• Screening (who should and should not be bouldering based on personal physical limitations)
• Route setting considerations
• Youth considerations
• Opening height: varying age/ability appropriate fall certification
• Bouldering etiquette
• Spotting Techniques
• Bio mechanics of falling and landing
• Gymnastic fall techniques
Presenter Bio
Timy Fairfield is a veteran of the US National Climbing Team, during which time he was ranked in the top 10 in World Cup Bouldering Ranking for 5 years. He is distinguished as being the only American to win professional level international events in all 3 competitive disciplines of the sport: Speed, Difficulty and Bouldering. He is co-founder of Futurist Climbing Consultants Inc which provides commercial climbing facility consulting/design services as well as bouldering safety flooring systems. FCC is the NA agent for Blocx climbing walls.
Dates and Times: May 30 (1:00 pm - 4:00 pm)
Location: Boulder Rock Club, 2829 Mapleton Ave, Boulder, CO (http://goo.gl/maps/PphAP)
Instructor: Craig Burzynski and Eric Olson, Adventure Rock
Cost: $60
Participants will gain hands-on experience in dealing with common auto-belay misuse scenarios and rescue situations. Discussions will focus on preventing auto belay injuries and misuse, common trends in facilities with auto belays and what can be done in emergency situations. We will demonstrate and practice rescue techniques that can be easily implemented to help prevent staff from being injured in emergency situations. This workshop will also touch on some non-auto belay related rescue scenarios. Participants should be prepared to climb and be on the wall. Suggested equipment: harness, shoes, belay device (Gri Gri and/plate type device), and 48” sling (or Metolius PAS or similar). Equipment will be made available, if necessary.
Presenter Bios
Eric Olson and Craig Burzynski have been running Adventure Rock for over 14 years and have been using auto-belays for nearly the same amount of time. Quickly, they realized their potential for retaining members and generating income. Being advocates of the auto-belay, they have tried to develop and implement procedures to avoid the pitfalls associated with their use. Craig and Eric have also tried to stay “on top of” new developments in the industry, including being CWI Provider and presenting at the conference.
Dates and Times: May 30 (9:00 am - 5:00 pm)
Location: Room 247, University Memorial Center, CU (http://goo.gl/maps/s0C2G)
Instructors: Various
This 8-hour workshop will address the programming, route setting, equipment, training, and risk management/legal aspects of managing a climbing area in a university or college setting. Participants will learn the ins and outs of university climbing wall management from university veterans, risk management professionals, and climbing industry experts. This worksop is designed to provide a framework from which to manage all aspects of university climbing programs. Attendees will leave the workshop with knowledge of successful programming, equipment management, staff training, and cooperation with university risk management administrators.
More details to follow.
Dates: Thursday May 30th (9:00 am - 12:00 pm)
Location: Aspen A (285), University Memorial Center, CU (http://goo.gl/maps/s0C2G)
Instructor: Heather Reynolds, Climbing Consultant & Coordinator of Student Recreation, Dalhousie University
Cost: $50.00
It is the goal of this session to design and develop programs and services that will mitigate risk in the facility, direct usage to low impact times and engage a broader potential market.
Step 1) We will begin the session with a worksheet that outlines the skills and current operations in each facility, as well as the current users of the facility.
Step 2) We will examine the strength of interesting new potential clients verses enrollment and retention.
Step 3) To identify some potential new markets.
Step 4) Design and develop new programs to engage new markets and/or retain current clients.
Presenter Bio
Heather has been involved in the climbing industry as a climber and instructor for over 20 years. She spent almost as many years as a personal coach and trainer, climbing full time. The most recent 11 years Heather’s experience has been operating a profitable climbing facility that generates 80-85% of it’s revenue from programs. This has included the development of the business plan and bid selection, design of the facility, budget planning and forecasting, staff training, staff development, working with stakeholders in the University environment, collaborating on projects like a Co-curricular Record Project.
Heather also has experience working in the Yoga industry as a self employed instructor. Her vast experience in a number of areas of recreation have supported her understanding of issues related to recreation, self care, the value of play, styles of play and service potential.